Monday, June 6, 2011

A Week in Sicily

"To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything." - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe


Segesta, Sicily
While Jon was enduring a month of "combat tourism" in Sicily in May, I was at home in the Netherlands having to hear about his quests to finding the most delicious fresh seafood restaurant, his trips to the beach and the access to yummy cannoli. After a while, I couldn't take it anymore, and headed on a direct RyanAir flight from Maastricht (NL) to Trapani (Sicily) for one week of Sicilian bliss. Although Jon did have to work at times, we were able to spend a lot of time together, and luckily, there is a multitude of sights to see within a one-hour radius of Marsala, where he was staying. 


Sicily was described to us by a Northern Italian we met, as a "rougher, scruffier Italy." This was apparent walking around Marsala and the lack of sidewalks, trash strewn about. constant horn-honking, and generally, a more gruff attitude than what I'm used to in northern Italy. However, once inside the pristine old town, or on the white sand beach, you seem to forget about these things and fall in love with the beautiful countryside that has so much to offer. 


After two days of exploring Marsala, we headed to San Vito Lo Capo for a beach bum day. The water was the most beautiful turquoise color and the white sandy beach was pristine. I hadn't been to a beach in so long, and was pleasantly surprised by this beautiful paradise, only 45 minutes from Marsala. 







After being at the beach for several hours, we explored the small village of San Vito and enjoyed some afternoon gelato. Jon tried the local favorite "brioche" which is ice cream in a bread bun. I think I'll stick to mine in a cone.


A beautiful vista on the road from San Vito Lo Capo
A beautiful vista on the road from San Vito Lo Capo

Erice street
After the beach, we made a stop to the medieval hilltop village of Erice. The narrow cobbled streets and fortress ruins were impressive, but the most amazing thing about this city is its situation on the top of a mountain. The views were spectacular of the Sicilian coastline and city of Trapani below.




Erice fortress
View from Erice
Another excursion included visiting the nearby Mozia salt flats and trekking to the ancient ruins of Segesta. Salt is still in production today in these ponds on the outskirt of Marsala. They are already beginning to change their hue, but supposedly in late June, the ponds turn bright pink. The old windmills that used to power the production are beautifully lit at night.



The ancient ruins of Segesta was at one time the home of the Elymian people, one of three indigenous people in Sicily.  The population was mixed Elymian and Greek. The sites are divided in two with the temple on one side of the mountain and the ampitheatre and other civic structures on the other side. The impressively massive Doric temple dates from the 5th century. 

Segesta - the Doric temple in the background

Segesta with the Doric temple
Segesta - Doric temple

At the top of Segesta, looking out across the Sicilian countryside
Segesta ampitheatre
Segesta ampitheatre - striking a god-like pose with our Danish friend, Rune

It had been a couple days since we'd hit the beach, so it was time for another water-related adventure. We took the 40-minute ferry from the Marsala harbor to the island of Favignana and had a day to explore the gorgeous coastline via a scooter. We ventured off the main roads of the island and traversed down the bumpy and rocky dirt roads to explore the coves and beaches of Cala Rossa, Cala Azzura and Cala Rotonda. The views from the rocky and craggy Cala Rossa were magnificent and I had never seen water so vibrantly turquoise. We enjoyed exploring the nooks and crannies of the rocks by the water and the many passageways along the coast.

Cala Rossa

Cala Rossa

Cala Rossa
Cala Rossa
Cala Azurra was a small, sandy beach that all the other tourists in town seemed to know about, so after a quick visit, we continued on to Cala Rotonda.

Our ride on Favignana island

Cala Azzura
At Cala Rotonda, we managed to find a small cove around the corner from where the other beach bums were, and enjoyed our own private hideaway. It was the absolute perfect day and is exactly how I like to explore beaches; immersed in nature, away from others, with the most beautiful horizons in the distance.

Cala Rotonda

Cala Rotonda
On my last day in Sicily, we visited the nearby town of Trapani. I was surprised by how nice, clean and beautiful this Sicilian city was. The only downside is that we visited in the middle of the day, so only had  about 30 minutes to shop before everything closed up. The Sicilians take their siesta very seriously and ALL shops and many restaurants close down completely from 1:00 until about 4:00 or 5:00 in the afternoon.

Trapani 
Trapani
We took the scenic route back from Trapani to Marsala, and meandered through the hillside vineyards surrounding the area. Marsala is well-known for its sweet wine, and although very few vineyards still make this particular kind of wine, the region is still known for its excellent quality of wine. Once back in Marsala, we visited the Donna Fugata winery for a tour and to taste some of their wines. We definitely found some new favorites and Jon was able to bring some home to add to our collection.

Exploring the vineyards around Marsala

Exploring the vineyards around Marsala

Donna Fugata winery
View outside the Enoteca in Marsala
One of the highlights of the trip was partaking in a wine tasting at an Enoteca in the center of Marsala, arranged by one of the Italian guys. The flight crew was nice enough to allow me to tag along and we enjoyed an evening learning about the various wines of the Sicilian area.



"Cin-Cin" from Marsala!
The guys at a wine-tasting - combat tourism at its best
My week in Sicily was better than I ever dreamed and I came home feeling like I really had been on vacation. And a bonus was that I got to spend time and have more adventures with my amazing husband - all while he was working. I could really get used to this and am already looking forward to hopefully returning again when he's next spending time in Sicily. It truly is a taste of Italy so unlike anything else I had experienced in my previous travels to this magnificent country. Grazie mille, Sicilia!

Marsala piazza

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