Friday, April 19, 2013

sLOVEnia: Castles, Caves and Countryside

Over Easter weekend, Jon and I embarked on our final new-country experience in Europe. At 35 weeks, this was my last opportunity to fly, so we opted to visit Slovenia, one of the remaining countries in Europe we had yet to visit. At the crossroads of Eastern and Western Europe, Slovenia is sandwiched between Italy, Croatia and Austria. This tiny country, only half the size of Switzerland, has so much to offer. Though we only had 3 days to see the highlights, luckily, the country is small enough to drive just about anywhere in only a couple hours, making it easy to see a ton. Unfortunately, the weather was not as pleasant as we hoped for, and instead of a spring-like Easter holiday, we experienced Slovenia as a beautiful winter wonderland. 

We did manage to experience a day of beautiful sunshine in the port-town of Trieste, Italy, where we flew in. We spent one afternoon and night here to experience the goodness of Italy one last time. Though Trieste is not heavy on the sites, we did enjoy walking around the old town and hiking up to the castle for magnificent views of the bay. 

Trieste's harbor-front square

View of Trieste Bay from San Giusto castle
San Giusto Castle

Trieste by night
That evening, we enjoyed a delicious Italian dinner before stumbling upon a brewery, where Jon enjoyed drinking beer with his 'flavor savor.' Although I dread the month of March, Jon gets so excited each year to grow his manly 'stache for 30 whole days to commemorate Mustache March. He was nice enough to trim it for me on this trip, 4 days before the end of the month,  so that our pics would be somewhat normal looking.

Forst Brewery in Trieste

The next morning, we drove 45 minutes across the border into Slovenia to the Karst region. Our first stop was at Predjama Castle. Buried into the side of a mountain, this is one of Europe's most scenic castles. The original castle from the 9th century was called "the castle in the cave," while the current castle from the 16th century is "in front of the cave." We decided to skip viewing the unexciting interior, and enjoyed walking around the snowy paths to get great views of this dramatic castle.

Predjama Castle

Predjama Castle

The Karst region is known for several impressive cave systems, some of the most extensive in Europe. The term "karst" is actually used worldwide to refer to an arid limestone plateau. This term comes from the Slovenian word "Kras" - a specific region near the Italian border. Since this limestone terrain is easily dissolved by water, karstic regions are punctuated by remarkable networks of caves and underground rivers. Though we considered touring two of the most popular, we decided to tour one that is a bit more exclusive, only open to 1,000 tourists a year. The four-hour tour only allows 4 people at a time and entry all depends on the water level, which changes daily. The Krizna Jama cave is only tour-able by boat as it connects 13 underground lakes.

Krizna Jama Cave

Outfitted in red jumpsuits, waterproof boots, helmets, headlamps and a Soviet-era battery pack, we entered the cave through a small rocky entrance. Once inside, we walked for half an hour through the dry cave before we reached water and took 3 different boats throughout the remainder of our tour.

Jon in all his cave-exploration gear at the entrance of the cave

 It was such a surreal and incredible experience to be paddling underground in a boat with beautiful rock formations surrounding us, only visible with our headlamps.

Krizna Jama cave - making our way to the boats

Krizna Jama cave 

Krizna Jama cave - pic of our 4-person tour group

Krizna Jama cave

Krizna Jama cave 

After our cave adventure, we drove a quick 45 minutes to the capital city of Ljubljana. Though it is a small city, there is a bustling student population with numerous bars and cafes lining the river and a hilltop castle overlooking the town. Rick Steves dubs this city as the"next, next Prague" (after Krakow). With gorgeous architecture, numerous boutiques, cafes and a few historical sites, I whole-heartedly agree. Though we only had a night and full day here, we enjoyed this city immensely and would definitely return in the summer when the outdoor cafes would be at their prime. Our first night, we enjoyed walking around the beautifully lit city, a delicious dinner, and bar-hopping the night away.

The Ljubljana city symbol - the dragon - with the castle in the distance

Ljubljana's Triple Bridge by night

Ljubljana by night
Ljubljana by night
The next day, we walked around the city visiting churches the bustling daily market, the hilltop castle, and the numerous squares around the city. 

Town Hall Square

Checking out the flowers at the daily market


Ljubljana Castle
View of the Ljubljana walking down from the castle
Congress Square
Later that afternoon, we drove an hour to the resort town of Lake Bled. I had imagined visiting this iconic lake with the small island in the center for years, and it usually included lots of green trees, sunshine and blue skies. Unfortunately, this was not the reality we experienced, but we still enjoyed our time in this beautiful town immensely. Our first morning, we decided to walk around the 3.5 mile perimeter of the lake. This allowed us to see great alternating views of the town of Bled, Bled castle, the island and the surrounding scenery. About halfway around, we found a trail that climbed uphill to an "excellent viewpoint." We hiked the steep mile uphill to see less than impressive views, before hiking down and continuing our stroll around the lake. The entire time, we kept commenting how Lake Bled will have to be added to our "return in summer conditions" list for the maximal experience.


Boat that carries tourists to the island with Bled castle and St. Martin's church in the distance

Island in center of Lake Bled

Hiking up the steep terrain to the look-out point

Hiking up the steep terrain to the look-out point - it was a ton of stairs!
View from the look-out point
Lake Bled and island at 35 weeks


After our stroll/hike around the lake, we treated ourselves to Bled's specialty cream cake dessert. It's a layer of cream and a thick layer of vanilla custard artfully sandwiched between sheets of delicate, crispy crust. We enjoyed it so much, we returned to have it again the following day. When in Bled....


After our dessert break, we hopped in the car and headed towards another nearby lake in Bohinj. From here, we embarked on another hike up a steep snowy path to a waterfall called Slap Savica. Though it snowed/rained on us the entire time, it was worth it to see this beautiful mountain setting and stream running alongside the trail. The waterfall was gorgeous, cascading into a remarkably pure pool of aquamarine snowmelt. Once again, we could only imagine how impressive it looks in summertime.

Slap Savica waterfall

Slap Savica waterfall
Mountain stream alongside our hiking path
Lake Bohinj
Lake Bohinj

 On Easter Sunday, I was awakened once again by water splashed on me. I don't know why this continues to surprise me, considering this is our third Easter in Eastern Europe, which is a tradition in these countries that Jon finds so amusing. After overcoming my initial shock, we began our morning by touring Bled Castle. We managed to get there just in time to see some Slovenian folk dancers perform. The interior of the castle was nothing special, but the views of Lake Bled were incredible.

Bled Castle

Island of Lake Bled
Bled Castle chapel

View of Lake Bled from Bled Castle
 The castle is also home to a pair of interesting old-fashioned shops. We visited both the working replica of a printing shop and the wine cellar, where you can bottle and cork your own wine. Jon enjoyed filling the bottle, corking it, sealing it and signing the label of our souvenir wine.

Bottling our Bled Castle wine

So proud of the finished product
After touring the castle and enjoying another delicious Bled dessert, we hopped on a boat to visit Bled's island - capped by a super cute church. This island and church is a popular destination for Slovene weddings. Ninety-eight steps lead from the boat dock to the church and it is tradition for the groom to carry his bride the entire way to prove his worthiness for marriage. I was not about to make Jon carry his 8.5 month pregnant wife up all these steps, but he was a great sport to hold me for the duration of this picture. 

Almost at the top of the 98 steps!
We spent 30 minutes on this tiny island visiting the Church of the Assumption and walking around the small perimeter before our boat returned to Bled town.


That evening, on our way back to the airport in Trieste, we stopped in Radovljica where we toured the Agricultural Museum with interesting displays on Slovenia's long beekeeping heritage, and a delicious traditional Slovene dinner at Lectar. Despite the uncooperative weather, we enjoyed our time in this beautiful country, abounding in activities for nature-lovers. In four days time, we managed to experience 3 castles, an awe-inspiring cave, hikes through the pristine countryside, a hip and bustling capital city, and numerous delicious meals. It was yet another successful Easter in Eastern Europe for the Cloughs! 

Friday, April 5, 2013

Father-Daughter Heritage Trip

A week after returning to Europe from Texas, I met up with one of my favorite travel partners - my dad! Though we had just seen each other, he wanted to plan one last trip to Europe before we moved, and preferred to come at a point in my pregnancy where I was still able to travel. Over the six years of living in Europe, my parents have traveled with us to a lot of fantastic destinations throughout Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, Belgium, the Netherlands, and the Czech Republic. One place Lar never got to that is on his bucket list is Sweden. This was an especially important destination for him as 3 of his 4 grandparents all emigrated from Sweden. My grandmother visited some of her cousins in Sweden many years ago, and though we haven't kept up the connection with them, we wanted to embark on our own father-daughter heritage trip to Sweden. 

As he was only visiting for a week, we decided to meet up in Stockholm for only two days to hit the highlights of this beautiful city, before returning to the NL for the remainder of his time. This was my fifth trip to Sweden and I was so glad to be returning once more and have the opportunity to meet up with my Swedish friends there. 

Lar and I met up at the Stockholm airport on March 13th and immediately hit the ground running exploring the city in the brutally cold temperatures. Though I was used to our never-ending winter weather this year, dad was a little shocked by the highs in the upper 20s during our time there. That afternoon, I walked him a little around the city and finally ended at the beautiful Östermalms Saluhall. This market hall from 1888 had numerous food counters of decadent desserts, fish, meats, cheeses, ready-to-eat items, and several restaurants. We enjoyed browsing the Swedish delicacies and enjoyed a late lunch there. 

Östermalms Saluhall
That evening, we met up with my first BU exchange student friend, Peter. He recently had a baby, so I was so excited to see him and hear all about his new adventures of parenthood. It's incredible to think that we first met in 2005, both in our early 20s, and now he's a father, and I'm about to be a mom. My how life changes! We were later met by my fave Swede, Maria, and her cousins Anna and Martin. They all enjoyed seeing/meeting my dad again, and I feel so blessed to have my own Swedish posse each time I visit. I cherish these friendships so much, not only because they have stood the test of time, but also because they really are some of the most kind, thoughtful and generous friends. 

The next morning, we hit the ground running seeing the sights of Stockholm. Armed with our Stockholm Card, gifted by Maria, we were able to see all the major museums and sights for free. The first stop was the City Hall, or Stadshuset, where they hold the Nobel Prize banquet each year. The building is situated perfectly on the water, looking out over the rest of city, situated on 14 islands in the archipelago. I have many of these same pictures from our time in Stockholm in August, 2011, but they look quite different this go round with ice and snow everywhere. 

Views from the City Hall
Views from the City Hall
City Hall
The iconic Dala Horse at City Hall
The "Blue Room" where the Nobel Prize Banquet takes place
The City Hall
The Golden Room in City Hall
After a morning at the City Hall, we headed to the harbor where we caught a winter boat tour of the archipelago. Once again, it was interesting to compare this trip with the one we made in August. One similarity both times was the beautiful clear skies and sunshine we had. Even if it was quite cold on the boat, we enjoyed the gorgeous scenery of the archipelago and its many islands.

Atop the boat with a pic of the archipelago and islands in the distance
The island of Fjärderholmarna
The Old Town
Maria was able to take off the afternoon from work and met our boat when we docked to hang with us as we explored old town, or Gamla Stan. She was a great tour guide and walked us by the Royal Palace, the quaint old town square and down the many winding streets filled with shops and restaurants on this small island. After picking up some souvenirs, we ended the afternoon at a fantastic tea house.

On the old town square, Stortoget

On the old town square, Stortoget

Enjoying afternoon tea in the old town
Crossing the bridge from the old town
That night, we had a special dinner planned with Maria and her family. She was so sweet to organize this and I was glad my dad was going to be able to meet her dad and step-mom. We met up with Maria and Jakob near our hotel and had a lovely nighttime walk through the city to the restaurant. When we arrived, we took at elevator to the top floor and were absolutely blown away by the incredible views of the city below. But, it wasn't just the views that were outstanding - our dinner was as well. My dad couldn't stop talking about the venison he ordered, and I was in heaven eating lamb and a dessert with 'Hjortron,' a delicious berry and delicacy only found in northern Scandinavia.

Maria's family is absolutely outstanding, and I'm so glad I've had the opportunity to get to know them during my previous visits to Sweden and it was extra special for my dad to meet them. Maria's dad and stepmom have been wanting to plan a trip to Texas for a while, so we're hoping they will make it happen in the next few years when we'll be near enough to tour guide them around.

Nighttime walk through Stockholm
Dinner with the Lilliestierna Clan
Me and my Swedish sis, Maria
The highlight of any trip to Sweden is always being able to spend time with Maria. I feel so blessed to have been able to spend so much time with her in the past 6 years, and I never would have thought when I first met her in 2005, that she would become one of my dearest friends for life. Though I'm so sad to be leaving Europe and my proximity to her, I know we will continue to make reunions happen throughout our lives. I can hardly wait to see her this weekend for our next BU exchange student reunion in Sittard!

Our final day in Stockholm, Dad and I visited the famous Vasa museum. This Swedish warship, which never made it out of the Stockholm harbor before sinking, is the world's only surviving 17th century ship. When you walk into the museum, you are immediately taken aback by how large it is. Over 95% of its original parts have been preserved and it truly is a sight to behold. It has been nicknamed the "Great Failure" as it never served its purpose as a warship, however I argue that its failure is actually a"Great Success," as we now have insight into the building and life of sailors from this period we would otherwise know nothing about.


Vasa Museum

Afterward, we walked to the Skansen Open Air Folk Museum where we could view buildings, churches and farm houses transported from all over Sweden. They had re-enactors who would tell us about life in Sweden during the 18th and 19th centuries. In addition to visiting various farms, we also visited the glassworks shop, furniture workshop, and general store. It was the perfect way to spend our final afternoon in Stockholm, enjoying the yester-year of Sweden. 

Skansen watermill
View of Stockholm from Skansen
18th century church at Skansen
I feel so fortunate to have been able to share this special trip with my dad, exploring our Swedish heritage together. Though I am proud to have Swedish blood running through me, I am even more proud to have real Swedish friends that keep me connected with all things wonderful and current about Sweden. Tack så mycket, Svenska vänner!

Back in Sittard, we spent the weekend exploring new local areas Lar has yet to experience. On Saturday, we took him to the village of Monshau, which still looked like a winter wonderland in mid-March. We enjoyed perusing the town and the beautiful half-timbered buildings, lunch at a cafe and a late afternoon coffee and waffle snack.

Monschau, Germany

Monschau, Germany

Monschau, Germany

Monschau, Germany

Monschau, Germany

Monschau, Germany

On Sunday, we attended church where Lar was kind enough to help me teach Sunday School for the second time. The kids absolutely adore him and it was so fun being able to share this experience with him. Afterward, we ate lunch in the Sittard square and enjoyed a lazy afternoon at home. 

Sittard Square

Another major priority for my dad during his trip to visit us was to stock up on some Scotch from the Natex. He was quite impressed with the selection during his first visit to GK and wanted to make the most of our last shopping days remaining. He ended up purchasing 7 bottles that we'll be sending back to the States for him. I hope that will last him a while!

Ah, the Scotch!
We spent our final morning together going for a run, biking around town and chocolate shopping at Sittard's Rousseau chocolate factory. Jon was able to take the afternoon off and we all trekked to the nearest ferry crossing over the Maas River into Belgium for a Belgian beer and snack that afternoon. I'm going to miss living so close to both the German and Belgian borders, making these unique excursions so easy!

Along the Maas River in Belgium
Enjoying Belgian beers in Belgium
It was a fantastic week spent with my dad filled with new adventures and an excellent final hoo-rah visit in Europe. Although I love traveling with both my parents at the same time, there's something special about getting one-on-one time with each of them every once in a while. I feel so blessed to have had this incredible father-daughter time together, especially before I have a little one of my own. Whether we were traveling, running, or simply relaxing at the house, I will always cherish the memories of this week. Thanks, Dad, for being the most amazing, fun and cool father a girl could every hope for. I love you so much!